Arequipa is one of the most picturesque cities in all of Peru. It is nestled between volcanos and is the gateway to the exploration of the deepest canyon in the world: the Colca Canyon. This area of Peru is such a gem to explore for great views, adventure, and food.
Best Thing I Ate This Week
Arroz Chaufa con Pollo a la Brasa from Polleria Tiznao
In almost every town we passed upon arriving in Peru there were Polleria restaurants serving pollo a la brasa (rotisserie chicken) and Chifa restaurants serving Chinese/Peruvian fusion cuisine. It led me to research a little about both to learn why these restaurants were in such abundance.
Pollo a la brasa is credited as a 1950s invention by a farmer outside of Peru who created the cooking style to quickly sell many chickens simultaneously. People loved the flavor so much that many more rotisserie chicken restaurants popped up around Lima and then all of Peru. Today, on the third Sunday of July, Peruvians celebrate Pollo a la Brasa Day and swarm Pollerias all around the country.
In the 1920s, it is believed that Chinese immigrants from the Cantonese regions opened their first restaurants in Lima. They imported flavors from their homeland and even grew vegetables to cook the cuisine that reminded them of home. The flavors were loved by the Peruvian population and over time became integrated into the culture. In addition to Chifa restaurants, the chaufa rice can be found on menus all over Peru. One of the most popular dishes, lomo saltado (stir-fry beef), is often served with chaufa rice.
While I was in Chivay, I found Polleria Tiznao which had very positive reviews. It seemed to be the perfect option for lunch, and once I walked into the dining room, I spotted the delicious rotisserie chickens being spun by the employees in the kitchen. I decided to order Arroz Chaufa con Pollo a la Brasa to see why these two dishes are so beloved in Peru. The flavors of both were delicious, and I tried a traditional pre-Inca beverage called Chicha (black corn juice) that perfectly balanced the rich flavor of the dish. This was not only the best thing I ate this week but one that I anticipate eating again during my time in Peru.
An Interesting Fact I Learned
Andean Condors are the largest flying birds in the world
Adult Andean Condors can have a wingspan of 10-12 feet and measure 4 feet tall, making them the largest flying birds in the world. They can be found throughout the Andes Mountains in South America. The best place to view these magnificent birds is in the Colca Canyon and in particular the famous Cruz del Condor viewpoint attracts tourists from all over the world who come to catch a glimpse of a few of the nearly 100 condors that live in the area.
Many people book a full-day visit from Arequipa to go to Colca Canyon and spend time at the Cruz del Condor viewpoint. Along the route, they are treated to incredible views of the Colca Canyon which is twice as deep as the Grand Canyon in the United States and regarded as one of the deepest canyons in the world. All along the hills of the canyon are incredible pre-Inca farming terraces from the Collaguas and Cabanas populations that are still being used today.
I decided to stay in the small town of Chivay regarded as the gateway to Colca Canyon so I could spend additional time taking in the peace and tranquility of this otherworldly environment. During my time I was treated to billowing smoke from Volcan Sabancaya, snow-capped views of Volcan Hualca Hualca/Voclan Ampato, relaxing Sallihua thermal pools, and so much more. Like many other tourists, the highlight of my trip was a visit to the Cruz del Condor viewpoint.
Chivay is located about an hour from the Cruz del Condor viewpoint and staying in town was a major advantage to visiting the viewpoint in the morning when the condors are highly active. I participated in a tour that stopped at incredible viewpoints along the Colca Canyon on the way to the viewpoint. When we got there a few condors were flying in the distance from the main viewing platforms. However, for an hour, I was treated to what our guide said was the best show in Peru. Nearly 20 condors came swooping by the viewpoint. Many of these were young condors but there were a handful of adults that were immense. At times the condors were only a few meters above the main viewing platforms as people let out gasps and screams of delight. It was truly incredible to witness these magnificent birds in a setting as impressive as the Colca Canyon.
My Travel Tip of the Week
Don’t overlook all that Arequipa has to offer
Arequipa is Peru’s second-largest city and is known as the white city because many of the buildings were constructed with sillar which is a white material found nearby the city. The three volcanoes of Misti, Pichu Pichu, and Chachani loom beautifully over the city but only Misti has a risk of eruption. In addition to the nearby active Volcan Misti, Arequipa is in a zone of seismic activity that has resulted in powerful earthquakes that have destroyed many of the buildings throughout the city. These natural disaster risks aren’t the main reason tourists don’t spend a lot of time here; it is because of the nearby other amazing attractions that draw them away.
Puno, the gateway to Lake Titicaca, is 5 hours to the northeast of Arequipa by car. Chivay, the gateway to Colca Canyon, is 3 hours to the north of Arequipa by car. Cusco, the gateway to Machu Picchu, is 8 hours to the north of Arequipa by car. These 3 destinations are among the most popular places in all of Peru so many tourists only spend a short amount of time in Arequipa to rest when they travel between Puno and Chivay.
I was able to spend more than a few days in Arequipa and it was a wonderful experience. For being the second largest city in Peru it was incredibly clean and appeared safe based on the number of young families that always were around town. The dining scene was great and there were so many places to try delicious regional cuisine, fusion options, and global restaurants. Throughout the city, there were beautiful terraces to take in Arequipa with the volcanoes in the distance, and one of my favorite viewpoints was Mirador Yanahuara. The Monasterio Santa Catalina and Basilica Catedral de Arequipa were examples of impressive colonial architecture but highlight some of the troubled past of the Spanish colonizers. Mercado San Camilo was an immense market with everything you could want to buy including the Arequipa specialty dessert of queso helado (not actually cheese ice cream). If you have the time I would recommend dedicating additional days to get to know Arequipa and all it has to offer.
My Additional Anecdote This Week
The kindness of strangers is remarkable
While in Arequipa and the Colca Canyon, it was the first time I had traveled alone for more than a few days in a long time. I was a little apprehensive that people might think it was weird that I was there all by myself. My fears were partially confirmed because throughout my stay people continually asked me why I was there by myself. However, that was only the start of the conversation and after explaining my circumstances people were incredibly friendly. This made sense with the other tourists who were also there primarily by themselves but what surprised me the most was how friendly the people of Peru were to me during this time.
There were so many instances of how kind people were throughout only a little over a week that it would be excessive to describe them all. I am going to focus on a handful of the most memorable experiences and highlight how the people of Peru made me feel so welcome.
The first experience was while walking alone in Chivay a police officer stopped me to ask if I needed help. We struck up a conversation, and he was so excited about my visit to Colca Canyon. He recommended his favorite places and called up his friend who was a taxi driver to ensure that I could get to wherever I needed around the canyon. It made navigating this new place seamless.
Another instance was while I was relaxing in the Banos Termales de Sallihua. A man and his family from Chivay asked to join my pool which then led to a deep discussion about life in the U.S. and life in Chivay. He shared more about the tranquil life there and regional foods that I should try. One of them, alpaca saltado, ended up being one of the most delicious things I have tried in Peru so far.
Yet an additional example was at a bonfire where I met a family from Arequipa who explained the political and economic situations of current-day Peru. They asked more about how things were in the U.S. and my impressions of Arequipa. They made sure that I knew to try Picanteria Mundial so that I could have a proper Arequipa lunch experience.
A last example was at the 13 Monjas restaurant where it was so busy that the host told me it would be a 50-minute wait for food. I did not want to sit that long by myself so I considered leaving. The server reassured me it wouldn’t be that long and, unbeknownst to me, had asked the chef to prioritize my dish which came out in 5 minutes. We struck up a conversation, and he asked about my favorite foods of Arequipa so far. I shared that my favorite was the Rocoto Relleno, which he said he too loved, and then recommended I try his favorite dish Pastel de Papas, which ended up being delicious as well.