From January 17 to January 22, Kevin and I went on the W-Trek through Torres del Paine National Park. We booked our trip 45 days prior to our departure and the following is our experience. We planned to trek for 5 days from East to West, starting from Laguna Amargo and ending in Pudeto. If you are planning your trip from West to East, you will do the reverse of what we are describing below. If you want to read about how to plan and reserve the trek, you can read about your options here.
What Type of Trek Did We Reserve?
Because this was our first multi-day trek, we wanted to ease ourselves into the experience. We reserved all four nights at refugios or luxury tents and did not have to bring any camping gear with us. We also reserved four full board experiences (dinner, breakfast, and packed lunch) for all the refugios we stayed at. This means that we did not have to bring food for our hikes, besides lunch for the first day, which I go into more detail below.
Before Leaving for the Trek
Gear Rental and Baggage Storage
Gear Rental
We did not have all the equipment needed for the hike, including backpacks, trekking poles, a rain jacket, and a sun hat. We rented our gear from Rental Natales. They are on the more expensive side of renting gear in Puerto Natales and if you walk around town, you can find other places for less. We continued with Rental Natales because we were able to order online in advance and they were the only ones that would rent us the clothing that we were missing.
Luggage Storage
If you are staying in a hotel or hostel before and after your trek, you should be able to store your luggage at those accommodations while you are doing the trek. We were staying in an Airbnb before and after and paid a local hotel to store our items. You can always ask your nearest hotel/hostel if you are in the same scenario as us.
The following are the additional things that you will need to have prepared for your trek:
The National Park Pass
If you are doing a trek for more than 3 days, make sure to purchase the appropriate pass. As a tourist, you are an “extranjero”.
Bus from Puerto Natales to the Park
We recommend booking this in advance to get one of the earliest buses possible (7 am). If you are starting from the East, you will book a ticket from Puerto Natales (Terminal Rodoviario) to Laguna Amarga (park entrance) and get off the bus at the park entrance. From there, you will transfer to a shuttle. If you are starting from the West, you will book a ticket from Puerto Natales (Terminal Rodoviario) to Pudeto. You will get off the bus at the park entrance to check in and get back on the bus towards Pudeto, where you will take the catamaran.
Bus from the Park Back to Puerto Natales
If you are ending on the west side of the park, your bus will be from Pudeto to Puerto Natales (Terminal Rodoviario). If you are ending on the east side of the park, your bus will be from Laguna Amarga (park entrance) to Puerto Natales (Terminal Rodoviario).
Cash for the Shuttle in the Park
If you are starting on the East, you will take the shuttle after checking in at the park entrance. If you are starting from the West, you will take the shuttle after you arrive at the Welcome Center at the end of the hike. When we did the trek, the shuttle cost 4.000 Chilean pesos per person.
Cash for the Catamaran
If you are starting or ending in Paine Grande, you will also need cash for the catamaran between Pudeto and Paine Grande. For those starting from the East, this will be at the end of your trek. If you are starting from the West, this will be at the beginning of your trek. The heading includes the website with the itinerary and cost of the catamaran.
Downloads of all of your campsite reservations
Your passport
Your PDI document (receipt-like paper that is given when you enter Chile)
Our Packing List
5 shirts (I brought 2 long sleeves and 3 short sleeves. Kevin brought 4 short sleeves and 1 long sleeve. This is truly up to you and the weather)
1 pair of lounge pants for after hiking
1 pair of hiking pants
6 pairs of underwear
4-6 pairs of socks
Women: 2 sports bras
1 raincoat
1 fleece/puffer (warmer outer layer)
1 pair of hiking pants
1 beanie
1 sunhat
1 buff
1 pair of sunglasses
bug spray
sunscreen
deodorant
toothbrush/toothpaste
comb/brush
soap/shampoo/conditioner
optional: contact lenses (anything you might need for that)
optional: glasses and case
kindle
outlet adapter
phone cord
portable charger
Day 1
Getting to the Trailhead
We started our morning early, taking the first bus (6:45 AM) from Puerto Natales to Laguna Amargo. I would recommend this bus or the one at 7:00 AM to get to the park as soon as possible. This not only gave us the most amount of time throughout the day to complete our first hike; it also allowed us to avoid some of the larger crowds for that hike, which is the most popular day hike in the park.
We got to the Laguna Amargo entrance around 8:45 AM. Here, everyone got off the bus to check in at the ranger station. They checked our National Park Pass for our full-time trekking in the park. Those who were continuing onto Pudeto got back onto the original bus. However, we were trying to go to the Welcome Center near the Las Torres Hotel.
It is possible to walk between the ranger station and the Welcome Center, but there is also a shuttle that can take you there for 4.000 Chilean pesos in cash (January 2024). Because of the quantity that we were hiking on the first day, we knew that the shuttle would be the best option for us. We quickly walked to the shuttle, paid the driver and made sure we were on one of the first shuttles to the Welcome Center.
At the Welcome Center, we were able to fill up our water bottles at the bathrooms. All water in the park is potable and even streams have potable water, so you do not have to worry about transporting large quantities of water.
The First Hike: The Towers
Distance: 9.2 Miles (14.8 Kilometers)
Elevation Gain: 3,136 Feet (956 Meters)
Our Walk Time: 5 hours, 30 minutes
AllTrails Link
The goal of the first hike was to reach the iconic Torres del Paine viewpoint. Around 9:00 AM, we started by hiking two hours to Refugio Chileno. This portion of the hike was challenging and it was our time to get accustomed to hiking with a backpack. Refugio Chileno is where we were staying the night so we dropped off our larger bags and packed a day bag to complete the hike. If we had been staying in Torres Central, we would have dropped off our bags there prior to trekking to Refugio Chileno.
At Refugio Chileno, we ate a sandwich that we had brought from Puerto Natales. The full board service did not start until dinner that night. We could have (and maybe should have) purchased lunch at the refugio because they offered an a-la-carte menu with a burger and a quesadilla. All refugios have vegetarian and gluten-free options available.
After lunch (12:00 PM), we filled up our water bottles right outside of the refugio and started on the next portion of the hike to the Base Torres lookout. It took us 2 hours to reach the peak of the hike, with the last 45 minutes being the most challenging. We reached the peak at 2:00 PM and spent an hour enjoying the view. Going up this portion of the trail closed at 3:00 PM and the lookout closed at 4:00 PM. We kept this in mind when we left the Refugio Chileno. We were very happy that we took such an early bus to the park so we could take more time throughout the day to eat lunch and at the lookout.
The wind and weather really picked up as we were heading back down to the refugio and it rained for our last hour of hiking. It took us 2 hours to return to Refugio Chileno, where we were able to check-in and get access to our accommodations for the night.
Our Experience at Refugio Chileno
That night, we were staying in a luxury tent campsite, which included a tent, mattress pad covering the whole floor of the tent, and sleeping bags. At check-in, we were given information regarding our tent location, time for dinner and breakfast, and restroom and shower locations. After checking-in and putting our bags into our tent, we went to the shared showers and restrooms to freshen up prior to dinner. The hot water in the showers had limited hours so we made sure to get a shower in before dinner.
Dinner included a vegetable soup, a protein with carbs and side vegetables for the main, and a small dessert. If you have dietary restrictions, you will let them know at check-in. You can purchase drinks (alcoholic and non-alcoholic) in the dining area. We were able to fill up our water bottles right outside of the refugio.
For people who are cooking their own food, you can only cook within a designated area in the refugio. This is to protect the environment from forest fires (especially since one started in this way a few years ago).
After dinner, we quickly went to bed to have an early start for the next day. And to get into the tent before the sun fully set. The refugio had some outlets where we were able to charge our devices during dinner. Most people had adapters with multiple USB ports, allowing more people to charge their devices than outlets available. We finished up charging our phones in our tent with our portable charger.
Day 2
Breakfast at the refugio was between 7:00 AM and 9:00 AM. We wanted to get there as soon as it opened to be able to get on the trail early. Breakfast included toast, eggs, ham, cheese, cereal, coffee, and juice. Unfortunately, it was raining this morning, making us question our decision to do this trek. We packed up our backpacks, picked up our packed lunch from the refugio, refilled our water bottles, and started hiking.
The Second Hike: Refugio Chileno to Refugio Frances
Distance: 10 Miles (16 Kilometers)
Elevation Gain: 1,591 Feet (485 Meters)
Our Walk Time: 6 hours, 5 minutes
AllTrails Link
This straight-forward hike took us along Nordernskjöld Lake, through the Cuernos Refugio, to Refugio Frances. We chose to stay at Refugio Frances because it made the distance for day 3 shorter and we knew that day 3 would be our most challenging hike. While the hike started at a higher elevation than where it ended, the rolling hills that we went through still made it challenging. And we battled the weather, with rain falling for half of the hike. The true challenge was doing the whole hike with our backpacks.
Eventually, we made it the Refugio Cuernos where we decided to eat lunch. We probably should have stopped earlier on the trail to refuel but we were eager to have a proper place to sit and a roof over our heads. The packed lunch included a sandwich (either meat or veggie), a fruit, dried fruit, mixed nuts, and chocolate. This was more than enough food for our lunch and we ended up saving some of the snacks for later in the hike.
After eating lunch, we refilled our water bottles at the refugio and completed our hike at Refugio Frances. At this location, we were staying in the hostel instead of the campsite. The check-in for the campsite (both premium camping and individual camping) is up the hill where as the one for the refugio is at the base of the hill. Similarly to the previous night, we checked in, received our allocated time for dinner and breakfast, and were give our lodging assignment.
Our Experience at Refugio Frances
At this refugio, 8 people are assigned to each dome, sleeping in 4 separate bunk beds. Each bunk has its own outlet, allowing us to charge our devices throughout the night. Each dome includes restrooms and showers. While the domes nicely separate the different groups of people, creating a sense of privacy, the structures themselves are quite loud and shaky with the wind. In addition, with the radiators on all night, they can get quite warm, especially in the top bunk. I would recommend opening all the windows in the dome and the bathroom area to help keep the temperature level throughout the night.
Similarly to the previous evening, dinner included a vegetable soup, a protein with carbs and side vegetables for the main, and a small dessert. If you have dietary restrictions, you will let them know at check-in. You can purchase drinks (alcoholic and non-alcoholic) in the dining area.
For people who are cooking their own food, there is a designated structure within the camping area to do this.
After dinner, we went to bed and tried to get a good night’s rest. Unfortunately, I (sleeping on the top bunk) was incredibly hot all night and heard the wind blowing the dome structure. Kevin, on the other hand, had a great night’s rest.
Day 3
Breakfast at this refugio was at an assigned time. Similarly to the previous refugio, it included toast, eggs, ham, cheese, cereal, coffee, and juice. Before leaving, we picked up our packed lunch, which was similar to the prior day.
We were in great spirits because the weather had changed and we had the perfect weather to go on this next hike, which included two incredible viewpoints. If it had been raining or with heavy clouds, these viewpoints would not have been visible.
The Third Hike: Refugio Frances to Refugio Paine Grande through Mirador Frances and Mirador Britanico
Distance: 12.7 Miles (20.5 Kilometers)
Elevation Gain: 2,966 Feet (904 Meters)
Our Walk Time: 7 hours, 10 minutes
AllTrails Link
This long hike was our favorite day. It was the hardest but the most rewarding with incredible views throughout the day. We left Refugio Frances and quickly arrived at the Italiano campsite, now a closed campsite at the base of the hike that we were about to ascend. Here, we were able to leave our backpacks. We packed up a daypack with some food and some cold weather gear in case the weather changed as we were hiking through the valley to the viewpoints.
The first viewpoint is Mirador Frances, where you can see the Frances glacier on the left. This viewpoint took our breath away! We were told that if the mountains ahead of this viewpoint are not visible, there is little reason to continue on this trek to the Mirador Britanico because the ultimate viewpoint would not be visible.
We had good fortune and continued on our hike to the Mirador Britanico. The very end of this portion of the trek was a scramble up for the final 15-30 minutes.
From the Mirador Britanico, we could see mountains all around us, including the Torres del Paine to the east. We spent time here talking to fellow hikers, eating some snacks, and watching the glacier, waiting unsuccessfully to see it break.
Eventually, we made our way back down through Mirador Frances to the Italiano campsite where we ate the sandwiches from our packed lunch. The round trip from the Italiano campsite to the Mirador Britanico and back took 4.5 hours, not including the time we spent at the Miradors.
At this point though, we were not done with the hike; we had to make our way to Refugio Paine Grande, which was another 2.5 hours away. With our backpacks, we trekked to the refugio through a relatively easy and flat trail.
Ultimately, we made it and we followed the signs for the refugio check-in rather than the camping check-in. Just like the previous night, we checked in, received our allocated time for dinner and breakfast, and were give our lodging assignment.
Our Experience at Paine Grande
This refugio felt like a hiking lodge, with fireplaces and stoves throughout with intimate places to sit and relax. Most of the rooms had 2 sets of bunk beds. The bathrooms and showers were shared for the entire floor. To save energy, electricity and hot water were turned off between 12:00 AM and 6:00 AM, so we had to shower and charge our devices strategically.
Dinner at this refugio was cafeteria/buffet style, allowing us to fill our plates with vegetables, carbs, proteins, and, of course, dessert. You can also purchase drinks (alcoholic and non-alcoholic) in the dining area. They also have a separate bar area where you can hang out.
For people who are cooking their own food, there is a designated structure within the camping area to do this.
After dinner, we went to back to our room to get some rest. We had some incredibly kind bunkmates and ended up chatting for a little before going to sleep. We did not have the same heat issues as in the previous refugio, fortunately!
Day 4
Breakfast at this refugio, while cafeteria style, still included the same items as the other refugios, including toast, eggs, ham, cheese, cereal, coffee, and juice. Before leaving, we picked up our packed lunch, which was similar to the prior day.
The Fourth Hike: Refugio Paine Grande to Grey Glacier
Distance: 10.9 Miles (17.5 Kilometers)
Elevation Gain: 1,578 Feet (481 Meters)
Our Walk Time: 5 hours, 50 minutes
AllTrails Link
The majority of this hike was straight-forward. As we made our way to the Refugio Grey, we stopped at a few viewpoints to see a lake and get our first sights of the beautiful Grey Glacier. Getting to the Refugio Grey took us 4 hours, and while we could have stopped there, we had been told about a few other viewpoints that were worth visiting.
When we arrived at the Refugio Grey, we were able to check-in right after eating lunch. Just like the previous refugio, we checked in, received our allocated time for dinner and breakfast, and were give our lodging assignment.
We dropped off our bags, and continued on to the Mirador Grey Glacier and the first suspension bridge to get other views of the incredible glacier. If you have the energy, you can continue on to the second suspension bridge. Some other hikers went and said that the view was worth it.
Eventually, we made our way back to the refugio where we got ready for dinner.
Our Experience at Refugio Grey
This refugio also felt like a small lodge. Similarly to Refugio Paine Grande, most of the rooms had 2 sets of bunk beds. The bathrooms and showers were shared for the entire floor. To save energy, electricity and hot water were turned off between 12:00 AM and 6:00 AM, so we had to shower and charge our devices strategically.
Dinner at this refugio was also cafeteria/buffet style, allowing us to fill our plates with vegetables, carbs, proteins, and, of course, dessert. You can also purchase drinks (alcoholic and non-alcoholic) in the dining area.
For people who are cooking their own food, there is a designated structure within the camping area to do this.
After dinner, we spent a few hours hanging out with the friends that we had made along the trek. It became a comradery as we were cheering each other on through this challenge. This was our final evening together and we were departing at different times the next day.
After this, we went back to our rooms to get some rest. Make sure to keep your window open in this refugio because the rooms can get warm in the evening.
Day 5
Breakfast at this refugio, was also cafeteria style, including toast, eggs, ham, cheese, cereal, coffee, and juice. Before leaving, we picked up our packed lunch, which was similar to the prior day.
The Fifth Hike: Refugio Grey to Refugio Paine Grande
Distance: 6.8 Miles (11 Kilometers)
Elevation Gain: 984 Feet (300 Meters)
Our Walk Time: 3 hours, 40 minutes
AllTrails Link
We knew that it would take 4 hours to get back to Refugio Paine Grande (our destination for the day) so we took our time leaving in the morning. We knew we had to get back to Paine Grande by 6:00 PM to take the last catamaran and catch our bus back to Puerto Natales.
The hike back to the Refugio Paine Grande was the same as the one from the day prior. When we arrived at the refugio, we ate our lunch and relaxed with the friends we had made while we waited. Taking advantage of the showers in the camping area, we were able to refresh ourselves and change into fresh clothes. We saved a shirt and lounge pants to hang out at the refugios in the evenings and they were still clean for after the full trek was over.
Back to Puerto Natales
Eventually, the catamaran arrived and we all got on, paying in cash for the ride. As we rode on the lake, we were able to look back at the mountains we hiked through. It was a nice retrospective to see the hike that we had just accomplished.
On the other side of the lake, our bus was waiting for us to go to Puerto Natales. If the catamaran fills up and does not have enough space, do not worry! They will send another boat to pick you up and the buses will wait for that second one before leaving.
If this trek interests you and you want to read about booking it, this article describes all the different ways you can reserve refugios or camping spots for this multi-day trek.
If you want to read about the other activities to do in Torres del Paine National Park and how to do them, read this article.
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Hi! We Are Kevin and Melina!
We are Kevin and Melina, two avid travelers who have decided to take our hobby of traveling into our new lifestyle.
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